National Oceanic and
Atmospheric Administration
United States Department of Commerce


FY 1981

The fluid mechanics of waves approaching breaking

Peregrine, D.H., E.D. Cokelet, and P. McIver

In Proceedings, 17th Coastal Engineering Conference, ASCE, New York, 514–528 (1980)

Numerical computations of water waves deforming until an overhanging, incipient jet has formed near the crest are studied in detail. Velocity and acceleration plots lead to the identification of three regions in the water which appear to be significant in the approach to breaking. In particular there is a region with particle accelerations greater than the acceleration of gravity.

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